INCI Name: 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Appearance: White to off-white crystalline powder
Solubility: Water-soluble (also soluble in ethanol and glycols)
Usage Rate: 0.5% – 5% (up to 10% for intensive brightening treatments)
Function: Skin brightening, antioxidant protection, collagen support
Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is a next-generation vitamin C derivative that offers superior stability and excellent skin penetration. It helps brighten dull skin, fade hyperpigmentation, and protect against oxidative stress, making it a go-to ingredient in modern brightening and anti-aging skincare formulations.
This highly stable form of Vitamin C is modified with an ethyl group, which protects it from oxidation and enhances its ability to penetrate the skin barrier. Once inside the skin, it is converted into active ascorbic acid, delivering powerful benefits without the common drawbacks of traditional vitamin C (like instability and irritation).
L-Ascorbic Acid is the pure form of Vitamin C but is highly unstable and prone to oxidation in water-based formulas. Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is ethanol-modified for far better stability and works effectively across a wider, skin-friendly pH window. It’s converted in skin to active Vitamin C while offering much better shelf life.
Yes. It’s AM-friendly and pairs well under sunscreen. Antioxidants like Ethyl Ascorbic Acid support photoprotection, but SPF is still essential.
It’s compatible with AHAs such as glycolic and lactic. For sensitive skin, alternate days or separate from strong acids/retinoids to minimize irritation. Keep finished formula pH in the 4–6 range for best performance.
It’s far less prone to yellowing than L-Ascorbic Acid, but slight discoloration can still occur. Use chelators (e.g., EDTA), deionized water, low-metal equipment, antioxidants like ferulic/Vitamin E, and opaque or air-restrictive packaging.
Store the powder tightly sealed in a cool, dry, dark place. Finished formulas keep best in opaque containers, away from heat and light. Follow the COA/SDS for raw material shelf life.
Most users notice brighter tone in 4–8 weeks with daily use. Targeted spot formulas at higher percentages may act faster, depending on skin and routine.
Generally yes. It’s gentler than pure Vitamin C and appropriate for all skin tones. As always, patch test if your skin is reactive.
