Polyhydroxystearic Acid (Castor Wax)

Polyhydroxystearic Acid

Oil-compatible dispersing agent used to improve pigment wetting, suspension, and overall stability in color cosmetic and sunscreen formulations.

INCI: Polyhydroxystearic Acid.

Appearance: Pale yellow to amber viscous liquid or soft waxy material.

Solubility: Oil-dispersible; compatible with many oils, esters, and emollients.

Typical Use Level: 0.5–5%.

Polyhydroxystearic Acid helps improve the dispersion of pigments, mineral filters, and powders in anhydrous and emulsion-based systems. It is especially useful in foundations, tinted products, sunscreens, and makeup bases where smoother pigment distribution and better stability are needed.

What It Does

Polyhydroxystearic Acid supports smoother and more uniform dispersion of pigments, powders, and mineral UV filters in oil-based systems. It helps reduce clumping, improve spreadability, and support a more even finish in finished formulations.

Key Benefits

• Improves pigment and powder dispersion.
• Helps reduce settling and uneven distribution.
• Supports smoother application in makeup formulas.
• Useful for titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxides, and color pigments.
• Helps improve stability in anhydrous and emulsion systems.

Suggested Use Levels

• 0.5–1% for light pigment systems.
• 1–3% for foundations, tinted bases, and mineral dispersions.
• 3–5% for higher powder-load or mineral filter systems.

Ideal Applications

• Liquid foundations and concealers
• Tinted moisturizers and BB creams
• Sunscreen and mineral filter dispersions
• Anhydrous makeup bases
• Pigment concentrates

Formulation Notes

• Pre-blend with the oil phase before adding pigments or powders.
• Works best with proper mixing or milling for uniform dispersion.
• Can be used with esters, hydrocarbons, silicones, and plant oils depending on the system.

Best used when pigments need to behave instead of forming tiny rebellious clumps. Cosmetic chemistry: expensive ways to stop beige sludge from separating.

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